Question
QUESTION: Hello Wayne,  I live in Jacksonville, FL and I received my white phal in early September at my mother-in-law's passing.  It was in bloom and produced 8 to 10 blooms.  They were beautiful.  My home was built in 1928 with double hung single pane windows (slight draft# and this orchid sat with my African violets as well another phal past blooming.  This window is South facing with no window dressing at all.   In November I noticed a  new spike off the old bloomed spike #I did not trim the old one# so I let it go, then I noticed another spike growing from between the leaves at the base #I let it go#, then I noticed another spike farther up the old bloom spike #I let it go).  I now have four budding spikes each with 5 to 7 buds and frankly don't know how I did it! I keep my home between 72-74 heat or cool.  My problem is that my leaves are turning very light green, almost like there is cell breakdown.  I have been feeding all my plants with african violet food just because that was what I had.  After the leaves starting changing I bought orchid food and watered it.  That was 5 days ago.  I have put it on a drywell well with pebbles thinking it may need humidity.  Will my plant die or is it just stressed because of all the flowering going on? I took it to my local florist that sells beautiful orchids and they said they sell them but don't know much about them but mine looked fine.  I can send a photo when I get home soon.  Thank you for your time.

ANSWER: Cathryn, thank you for the opportunity for me to comment on your plant.  You mentioned that the plant has south exposure which may qualify as bright light. It would also be the reason that the leaves are turning a light green.  The higher light levels also are know to stimulate flowering. Under such circumstances, an old bloom spike may reflower at its nodes (ie joints) as well as reflower from its base.  Many phalaenopsis growers would like to have this experience.  It is likely that not only is your light level conducive  to flowering,but, it is likely that you have a superior hybrid phalaenopsis.  Your growing temperature is fine for phalaenopsis.

One caution which may also be on your mind:  superior blooming plants have been known to flower excessively-- eventually weakening the plant.  These plants need to be repotted every couple of years to provide a fresh growing mix and to check root condition.  Orchids require an "open" potting mix that allows water to easily drain out of the pot, allowing the mix to dry out between waterings and allowing air to pass through the potting mix.  Depending upon the type of potting mix, and its condition, failure to repot in a timely manner could result in root rot. With most orchids, recommendation is to repot after flowering or when new root growth starts. However, the decision on when to repot is more difficult. Best choice with phalaenopsis is to repot every two years if the plant is healthy and more frequently if it shows distress.  I recommend using a commercially prepared fir bark based orchid potting mix.  This orchid potting mix should be soaked prior to use as fir dry fir bark repels water.  When you are ready to repot, I can walk you through the steps.  

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Cathryn's phal   QUESTION: Hello again Wayne and Happy Holidays!  Thank you so very much for your response!  I am excited and scared at the same time about my phal.  It seems I have been incredibly lucky to have such a great growing environment.  I have attached a few photos (it took me a little while to figure this out) and have had some orchid potting bark soaking since yesterday morning in the event I will need to repot.  All I have read leads me to believe I should wait until after blooming. If I did overwater previously (the moss is still moist in the pot after 7 days although it is on a drywell) if I let it dry out will this help?   Since I last emailed you the oldest leaf is completely yellow and the second oldest will be there quite soon leaving 4 leaves left on one side.  What is the normal life expectancy for the leaves, i.e. do they die back after or during flowering or just as new leaves develop or at all?   It has 7 healthy roots exposed on top but I am really nervous about disturbing the pot to see inside.  I have looked and see lots of green roots throughout the plastic container and along the bottom as well with one or two black ones.  It appears that there are plastic peanuts on the bottom and mostly moss as the medium.  I have to be out of town starting tomorrow until New year's and am trying to determine the best course of action.  Thank you again Wayne for all your help.

ANSWER: Thank you again for the picture Cathryn.  Hope you had a good Christmas and have a special new year. Clearly, your potting mix is not in the best condition.  Since you have already soaked the fir bark based potting mix, if you don't use it before you leave it will be unfit to use when you return. If you don't have time to repot before you leave, the plant should fine for a few days until you return.  Better to have it on the dry side.  Nice pebble tray, just don't let the plant sit in water.  Best to place the pot on top of the pebbles with any water down in the pebbles.

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QUESTION: Hello Wayne,  Happy New Year!  I've just arrived home from the holidays and all seems to have done well.  I did not water before I left thinking it would be warm here over the holidays and they were still a tiny bit damp.  Unfortunately, my phal that we have been discussing, the spike off of the original old spike bent in half from the heaviness of the bloomed flowers.  I just added a support, sort of cattywompas without touching the bend and the five blooms are okay (I had two buds that bloomed during my holiday).  I did have one very small pea sized bud yellow on another spike but the remaining buds are still growing and one has bloomed.  I now have 8 blooms and four buds remaining on the three spikes.  I did not get a chance to change the medium but did refrigerate the bark mixture but guess now I will need to throw that out and start over.  With regard to my pebble tray, I have mounded the pebbles so to speak so that the water runs to the outer side of the tray.  Boy, were they dry when I came home.  I added water and the rocks just hissed.  Before I start the repotting of my phal, will I need or should I buy some moss or just use the orchid bark mixture I purchased (Better Gro Special Orchid Mix)?  In your opinion, do you think my phal will drop its flowers or buds after I repot?  Would you mind walking me through the process tomorrow if you have the time?  I'd be very grateful.  Thank you again for all your support, expert opinion and recommendations.  Very  Sincerely,  Cathryn

Answer
Cathryn, I would stay away from the moss as it compacts over time and tends to remain too wet or too dry. I think the "Better Gro" will work well for you, but, yes, you will need to soak a fresh batch.  If you repot while it is bud or flower, you could lose those flowers.  The reason is that repotting disturbs the roots and, therefore, the flow of nutrients. If done carefully, some of the flowers may survive and new buds could open. The potential effect on flowers is the main reason it is recommended that growers wait until after flowering to repot.

When you decide to repot,Soak the potting mix for 24 hours and then pour the soaking mix through a colander or other sieve to eliminate the dust or fine particles.  While the fresh mix is soaking, unpot your plant and rinse off the roots.  Remove any collapsed roots before repotting. The next decision is whether you can reuse the same pot or use a larger pot.  In general, if most roots are healthy, you should use a new plastic pot that is about an inch larger in diameter.  I like the clear pots because root growth can be seen.  If clear is not available, use a plastic pot with six or more drainage holes. Lower the roots into the new pot by slowly rotating the pot as you lower the roots.  This helps to minimize root damage during repotting. Once the roots are down into the pot, slowly add the potting mix, tapping the side and bottom of the pot as you add the mix.  This helps settle the mix amongst the roots.  All of this, of course, should be done in a location where the water can drain freely out of the mix during the repotting process.  Set the pot aside where it can continue to drain.  Stake any remaining flower spikes securely.  Do not water for a week.  

Glad you had a safe return and hope you are bearing up well in the cold.  Happy New Year to you as well.