Question
QUESTION: Hey Jim
I just bought a new cymbidium, on sale because it was no longer flowering and slightly damaged. I抳e never had a cymbidium before but I do have 3 phals and I was wondering if there were any major differences in keeping them healthy other than temperature and light. The cymbidium has 6 bulbs, and very healthy roots. Some of the leaves look a little burnt and also have what looks like water marks along the bottom of the leaves where they meet the bulb. I know that water entering the stem of the leaves on phals can be fatal and am worried about the cymbidium. When watering it should I also avoid getting any water where the stem of the leaf meets the bulb? Also I m planning on replanting it since it is much too large for its current pot. Are fir bark, horticultural charcoal and minerals okay as a medium for cymbidiums? Thank you so much for your time. I hope you don't mind answering my questions. You seem very knowledgeable and I want to make sure I save this plant and not destroy it.
Thanks again
Kate


ANSWER: Hi Kate,

Yes, there are some differences in how to care for and grow cymbidiums versus phalaenopsis.  While phalaenopsis are primarily indoor orchids, cymbidiums are the opposite and should be grown outdoors as much as possible.  

Here are some guidelines for it.  Depending upon where you live, grow it in bright sunlight, enough light for the leaves to be a light to medium green color.  If the leaves are more medium to dark green right now, slowly expose it to brighter light over the next month, too sudden an exposure and the leaves may be sunburned.  Southern parts of the country will require shading during mid day but in northern areas full sun is probably okay.  Temperatures between 45F to 85F are fine but it can withstand temps down to 30F and up to 100F with some protection from the elements.  Place it where it will be exposed to some light breezes.  Water it when the potting media starts to become dry, this may be every other day in summer to every 10-14 days or longer in winter.  Feed it a balance type orchid fertilizer according to the directions on the container.  

The mix you are thinking of using to repot should be fine.  Water on the leaves is not a big problem but watering in the afternoon or evening is a problem.  Water it in the morning to allow time for any water on the leaves to evaporate before nightfall.  

That's about it.  

Jim Kawasaki
San Jose, Ca.



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hey Jim,
Thanks for answering all my questions. Unfortunately I think my brand new orchid has the fleck virus, it has tiny little black dots on it and weird uneven coloring. My friend works at a plant laboratory so I'm going to ask her if she can check it out for me. I really don't want to have to destroy it. Fortunately I抳e learnt my lesson with mealy bugs so it has been in isolation. Thank you again!
Kate

Answer
Hi Kate,

I hope it doesn't have a virus but if it does, the best thing to do is dump it into the trash bin.  Even if you keep it segregated from your other orchids and plants, any tools you use on it will have to be thoroughly sterilized before use on the other plants.  Also, any sucking insects in the area could transfer virus from it to other plants.  

Small black dots on the leafs may or may not be from virus but uneven coloring (color breaks) in the flowers usually is a fairly good indicator of virus.  Some cymbidiums with quite a bit of Cym. ensifolium in their heritage are susceptible to leaf spotting.  

Good luck with it!

Jim Kawasaki
San Jose, Ca.