Question
Dear Jim,

Thank you so very much.  I was also afraid that something horrible was happening to my orchid.  It just didn't make sense that it went from a huge and wonderfully healthy plant to this, in such a short amount of time. And to think, it was also such a seasoned traveler! I will go tomorrow morning for the razor blades and try to save it.  

I never realized how special these orchids were, and how one could have become as attached as I had.  For months, the very first thing I'd do in the morning, was to look at my orchid, and marvel at how it was growing.  I'd slowly turn it around until it was again oriented where it started.  I can't tell you how much pleasure this plant had given me.  It had doubled in size since I had gotten it, and it always brought a smile to my face. I now know why everyone loves them so. I'll be sure to let you know how it fared, although like you, realize that I may still lose it.  

Jim, I have also not ever heard of a bacterial infection.  How would a plant get such an infection?  Is it a flaw in the genetics of a certain plant, or is it acquired from some outside source?  Also, I'll be back in Westwood by the end of the year, and will be staying there until summer again.  Perhaps I'd be able to get to an orchid grower at that time.  The one thing I can assure you is that I am hopelessly hooked on the mystery and beauty of the orchid, and won't let the problem I'm having with my first one, stop me from trying again.

Again...thanks so very much for all of your help.  I can't tell you just how much I've appreciated it, and promise to keep you up to date as to how I did.

Take care, and thanks,

drh
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Followup To

Question -
Dear Jim,

Thanks so much for your reply, and great tips.  I'm still not sure though, how this happened, and know that I do need some guidance.  Although I said that I watered it every week, it really wasn't religiously. I never watered it unless I put my finger deep into the bark to feel for dryness.  And when I wet the leaves, I did so by first just wetting my hand, and then running my damp hand from the middle of the leaf to the top.  I never actually let water fall onto the bottom of the leaves or the bulb, as I did read that this could prove harmful, and the orchid was absolutely glorious until recently.  In fact, since I emailed you, yet another bulb has become mushy, and has lost almost all its leaves. There is now only one firm bulb left.

Jim, I originally had the orchid with me in Los Angeles (Westwood), for most of the time that I've had it.  I actually then took it with me to my home in Arizona for three weeks, and it was thriving there too.  I then took it with me back to LA, and then to my condo in Palm Springs, where it's been with me for 6 weeks. The funny thing is, that it had it's own spot in the car where I made sure it was secure, and had cover so that the sun didn't shine into the car and kill it on the way.  

It's very hot in Palm Springs, and opening a window is out of the question during summer. The Palm Springs condo is air conditioned, but the orchid is not near a vent, and no air blows on it.  But your email made me realize that it is not getting as much white light as it did in L.A.  You may just be right that it needed even less water while in the condo.

The orchid has also only been getting mushy just since it's been here in Palm Springs. And, I do however now remember that before the bulbs started becomming mushy, that although the bark was totally dry, that I thought I felt roots that felt kind of 'damp' under the dry bark, but didn't really know if they were in fact damp, or that they were just 'plump' feeling, and am now wondering if that meant that I shouldn't have watered it at all? Are the roots supposed to feel like that?

My problem now is that I don't want to lose the whole plant, and am needing help. Do you think I should try replanting it in another container?  I'm wondering if I could separate the remaining one bulb from the rotting ones, if I could save it.  This is my first orchid, and I am devastated that this is happening, especially since I seemed to be doing so well with it for so long. Also, I've thought about putting it out of the sun on my patio where there is tons of light, but it's still 100 degrees during the day. Do you think it would help at all, because I'm at a total loss.

I'm so very sorry to reply with such a long email, but was so proud of this plant, and want to succeed in growing these beautiful orchids. And, as much as I'd love to be able to join a club, won't have the time until after the New Year.  I'm sure I'm going to lose this orchid within the next week if I don't do something right away.  Do you think you could help guide me so that I can try to save it?  Jim, I would really appreciate any more help you would be able to give me.

Thanks again,

drh
[email protected]
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Followup To

Question -
I have had a glorious cymbidium orchid for 6 months.  When I received it as a birthday gift, it was in bloom with 4 spikes of blooms.  After the blooms had expired, I cut the stalks back to within an inch or so of the soil.  

Since then, my orchid has produced 6 new babies, and seemed to be doing well.  It was approximately 2 feet across and more than 2 feet high. It's been kept about 6'from a slightly north/east window with tons of light,no direct sun, and cool evening Los Angeles air (we are 3 miles from the ocean).

I've watered my orchid about once a week in the sink, allowing any excess water to drain out the bottom, and I allow water to hit the leaves in order to give them a little 'bath'.  This orchid was absolutely glorious.

About 3 weeks ago, without changing any of my above habits, the leaves of my orchid have been falling off.  These were mature, large healthy leaves, which have fallen off exactly at the point where the leaf meets the bulb of the orchid.  Although the leaves fall off completely green, the part that connects to the bulb turn yellow in the center with brown on each side of the yellow (about 1/4" worth), and the leaves just fall off (sometimes 6 at a time).

I noticed at the same time, that the bulb of my orchid was getting 'mushy'.  In order to save the plant, I was able to gently twist the leafless bulb out of the pot.  The orchid seemed to be doing well for about a week thereafter.  All of a sudden, it began happening to the another bulb.  I gently squeezed the bulb about 15 minutes after watering the orchid, and clear water sprouted out of it.  I'm not sure why this is happening, as I am not allowing it to sit in any water, and water it once a week, always feeling to make sure that the potting bark and underneath is not wet and needing watering.

I'm just desperate to find out what to do.  The baby coming out of the now other mushy bulb is doing quite well, yet the bulb has lost all of its leaves, and is quite soft.  I don't see any little bugs or things in the bark, and truly don't want to lose my beautiful plant.  I've searched and searched the internet, but have come up with absolutely nothing about mushy bulbs.  Is there anything you can tell me that would help me save this wonderful orchid?  I'm sorry for such a long email, but wanted to give you as much information as possible.  Any help would be so appreciated.

Thank you,

drh

Answer -
Hello drh,

Thank you for providing so much information about what is happening to your cymbidium orchid plant.  From what you told me, here are some things to consider.  

First, since you live in So. Cal., you should try growing it outdoors if at all possible.  Cymbidiums need quite a bit of sunlight in order to grow and bloom well.  L.A. is one of the better regions on this earth to grow orchids, some of the best cymbidium growers live in So. Cal.  

Second, growing it indoors and religiously watering it every week may have been too frequent as cyms prefer to become barely moist between waterings.  Indoors it is not subjected to much air movement which helps dry it out within a week or less.  

Third, watering the leaves may have caused the leaf drop you have been seeing.  Water caught within the leaves can cause a mild rot to form near the leaf base, causing the leaf to fall off.  This also probably contributed to the mushy bulbs.  

You did not mention what part of L.A. you live but I'm pretty sure there may be a cymbidium orchid club near you.  If you would like some information about them, write back and I'll send it to you.  But if you feel you do not have 3 hours a month to attend a meeting, I can give you some guidance on how to grow it.  

Jim Kawasaki
San Jose, Ca.

Answer -
Hi drh,

Wow, you do get around, don't you.  (grin)  

With the additional information, I now believe (my worst fear initially but didn't want to say it) is that your cymbidium may have a bacterial infection that is causing the mushy bulbs.  

Hopefully there is still time to save the cym. but I have to warn you that it may still be a goner regardless of what you do trying to save it.  With that said, here is what you should do.  

Remove the cym. from the pot, you may have to pound on the sides to loosen it enough to pull out.  Once out, using a garden shear or large knife with a stiff blade, cut off the mushy bulbs.  To prevent any possible infection being transferred by the cutter, sterilize it between cuts by exposing the blade to hot flame for at least a minute.  It is also possible to use single-edged razor blades to cut with but be very careful to cut only the cym. and not yourself.  With razor blades you should cut off one bulb then dispose of the blade, using a new blade to cut off the next bulb, etc.  I use industrial grade blades I buy from paint stores, they are about $10.00 or so for 100 blades.  

Once all mushy bulbs have been removed, look at the base of the bulb where it was connected to the other bulbs.  If there is any discoloration (dark spots or areas), it probably means the infection has spread to it also.  If the area is clear of dark spots, treat the cut with powdered cinnamon.  Powdered cinnamon has some anti-bacterial properties to help seal the cut surface.  

Palm Springs can be hard on cyms., but you might be able to put it outdoors where it will get morning sunlight until about 9 then shade the rest of the day.  Until temperatures drop into the low 80's, you may have to water it every 3 or 4 days outdoors.  Once temperatures cool down, you probably could water every 4 (70 to 85 F) to 7 (50 to 70 F) days.  As temperatures cool even more in Autumn and Winter, leave it outdoors unless the forecast is for temperatures below 40 F.  Does it get that cold in Palm Springs?  Also, once the temperatures stay below 80 F, you can move it into full sunlight.  

Too bad you're in Palms Springs.  I was hoping you were going to tell me you were in southern L.A. or Orange County where there are a couple of very good cymbidium clubs.  If you are interested and don't mind going about 100 miles north, Santa Barbara Orchid Estates in Santa Barbara has a very large collection of cymbidiums for sale.  Also, if you have the third weekend in March 2007 open, there is a huge orchid show and sale in S.B.  But if you would like to stay closer to home, sometime in February there is another huge orchid show in Orange County.  Both shows are impressive for any one interested in orchids but especially cymbidiums.  

I hope you are able to save that cymbidium with the above suggestions.  Good luck!  

Jim Kawasaki
San Jose, Ca.

Answer
Hi again drh,

Sorry to taking so long to get back to you, had to go to Lake Tahoe to take care of some repairs on my mother's house up there.  Nothing had been done for quite some time so there was and are still lots of things to fix.  

Darn!  I had written quite a bit when I tried checking another web site for some information and when I came back my answer back to you was gone!!!  I guess this All Expert site doesn't like you leaving!  (grin)  

Bacteria can come from many sources, but the most common means orchids become infected are by: humans transfering it from plant to plant either by touching or with a cutting instrument, air borne from an infected plant nearby, water left on the plant in which the bacteria settles and multiplies.  Another possibility is that it was already infected when you bought it.  Bacterial infections can take some time to become evident and usually by then it is too late to save the plant.  

There is one cymbidium club near Westwood, if my memory serves me you are in northern L.A.  The Westside Cym. Soc. meets the 1st Tues. from Nov. to May at 2425 Pearl St. in Santa Monica.  A really good cym club down further south is the Torrance Cym. Soc. that meets the 2nd Tues. from Oct. to June at 340 229th Pl. in Torrance.  To the east of you is the San Gabriel Cym. Soc. that meets the 4th Tues. from Sept. to June at 301 N. Baldwin Ave. in Arcadia.  Even further south would be the Orange County Cym. Soc. that meets the 2nd Weds. each month all year round at 1130 Sanford Ave. in Garden Grove.  By the way, this last club holds a huge orchid show each February so keep your eyes and ears open for when.  I believe it is being held at the O.C. fair grounds.  

Hey, you could go to all four!!!  (grin)   

Hope all is well.  

Jim