Question
is it possible to force gladiolas?  i'm just planting the bulbs in my garden now, so i won't see anything til next year.  would love to see them this year.

Answer
Elaine,
 You didn't say which growing zone you are in so I'll just tell you what I do with gladiolas, which happen to be my FAVORITE flower. I live in growing Zone 5b, lower Nebraska.
 
 I start planting bulbs (which I no longer dig up-they are cheap enough plus some have come back)in April when the spring has come and no frost is in sight until winter!  I plant LOTS of them.  I dig a hole about 4" deep and position them with corms down and as straight as you can about 2" apart and cover them with soil that I have added peat moss and bulb food. Some tend to grow crooked if you don't plant really straight-use a support on them. I continue to plant glads every 2 weeks until mid July.  At the end of June and in July I dig the holes to only about 2.5" (You'll probably need to support these as they come up).  I have Glads into September.

  Most glads are annuals and must be dug from the ground when the foliage dies back and just before the first frost.  They need to be stored in mulch/peat moss and kept at about 45-50 degrees F. You can purchase perennial glads-I did for the first time this year-so we'll see how they come out!

 To "force" the bulbs, get a shallow pan or dish and fill with water just over the rocks.  Place the bulbs (corm side down) a little down in the rocks in the water.  Place in the sun and keep the water consistant. (this goes for any bulbs-I have tulips and hyacinth in the winter!).  When the bulb starts to "shoot" out and roots are established, you can plant them.  Make sure the dirt is not HARD--add peatmoss and bulb food to it. This should hasten the growth of the glads.

 My first glads are just opening up this weekend!! They love the heat! I'm soooo excited!!

I will give you my "Super Soil" recipe, the preparation of the soil is 80% of a successful garden.
Super Soil Mixture:

  In the established garden areas, I  use a shovel, pitchfork or small cultivator to turn the  areas around the plants each year and work in some of the mix.  Work it into the soil around all your established plants.
 
For new garden beds:
 For every 10?x 10?of NEW area add: (you can cut the portions as needed)

4 bags of good topsoil
4 bags of horse/cow/chicken manure-elephant is the VERY BEST!!
Any amount of your own compost
2 bags sand-play sand is OK(depending on your soil type)
1 bag Millorganite -organic fertilizer, nurseries-not avail. in all states
2 bags cedar mulch
2 bags pellet gypsum (for aeration)-if your soil has lots of clay
2 bags powdered/granulated sulphur

Rototill this mixture into the ground to about 1 foot in depth or more if you can.

This mixture is the best I have formulated and I have GREAT success with it.  I always have a bunch of it premixed so when I transplant I can have that area primed!  This stuff is like butter if you till it enough and put in the right stuff!

MILLORGANITE can be purchased at nurseries , about $10 a bag.  It is organic and will not harm pets or you!  You can put it on the lawn in the spring and again in the fall with a spreader ( I put it on quite heavily) and all your flowers and vegetables.  It is not available in all states.  Your plants and lawn will look LUSH!! Put it in potted plants also--you will really notice the difference!!

揚REEN?is also a GREAT product to put on your garden areas to prevent weed growth.  You first have to get all the weeds out. Then put on the PREEN-with or without fertilizer-right at the first of spring and again in the middle of summer.  I抳e NEVER had weeds in my flower areas since starting this product.  If you want to go organic and natural, use corn gluten at the same times.  You can抰 sow seeds once you抳e put Preen down.  You have to wait about 6 weeks--so on those areas you want to use seeds--don抰 use PREEN until the seeds have sprouted and started to leaf..


Now go out there and get your hands dirty!!
Sijka