Question
I planted the rose on the southwest corner of my house, close to the foundation.  We're in zone 5, I believe.  I know nothing of roses, just that I love them.  As for the rest, well...I'm hoping I'll learn it in time.  It gets a little wind, but we have a yard full of trees more than average, like 21 trees and a blue spruce pine blocks some of the wind being 10-15 feet in front of this rose.  But no tree blocks the rose's light at all, it's in one of the few places where there's full sun.  I have no idea what I should be doing to protect it from the winter.  What do you do to them to winterize them?  What is the ideal fertilizer for it and when should it be applied?  Thank you so much for your help, I appreciate it!  ~Tara    
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The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
I have this rose, it never seems to do well since I've had it for two years.  It stays small and never seems to prosper.  I love it, and I have no idea how to properly care for it-I am such a novice.  What can I do to make my little beauty grow bigger?  Do the Illinois winters have anything to do with this?  If so, is there anything I should be doing to protect it?  What type of fertilizer should I use?  Thank you for the help-Tara
-----Answer-----
Funny you should ask, Tara.  Mme. Hardy is a tough, thorny Old Damask Rose with stunning beauty. Its trademark long, arching canes take time to get established, and like all Roses, this is no low-maintenance flowering shrub - although as Roses go, it demands less and still performs beautifully.

First:  You probably have not seen enough growth to take a pruning shears to this bush.  But if and when you do, wait until after flowering has ended.  This Rose will bloom in spring with only sprarse blooms afterwards.  Prune in July or later.

Now, given that we know there is a single significant flush of blooms, can you tell me what Zone you are growing Mme. Hardy in?  Even if this shrub is hardy to Zone 4, winter damage can still effectively destroy all potential blooms if the canes are not protected from the coldest temperatures.  Where did you plant this Rose?  Is it exposed to wind?  Is it near the foundation of a house?  What kind of winter protection does it have?

RSVP - and we will get to the bottom of this.  

Answer
Thanks for your prompt followup, Tara.

WINTER DAMAGE:  You say that your rose is planted next to the foundation - that is normally a warmer microclimate than the rest of a garden, and helpful for the roots or for any bulbs you might plant.

But the canes would still be exposed; if there is enough cold wind through the winter, there will be some damage.  Roses should be planted on the East or the South (preferably) side of a building to get the best sun exposure.

VITAMINS AND MINERALS:  Just for fun, I think you should obtain a soil sample from the area you are growing your Rose.  See if it is too alkaline (cement foundations tend to raise the pH of soil next to them).

It probably is not the problem here, but it is always good to know exactly what you have.

One of the reasons I think that would be helpful is that Roses are very hungry, high maintenance plants.  They need LOTS of Nitrogen and other goodies.  A soil analysis - a good one, not the do it yourself kind (and they are not expensive anyway) - will give you a lot of first rate technical information that will help you make a lot of decisions.  Most important, NEVER go by the picture on the box.  The picture is decided by a marketing person who doesn't care if it's the one you need and probably doesn't even KNOW which one you need; always read the N-P-K analysis, even if the Name of the product is something like "Flower-Powerful" or "Blossom Biggest" etc.  ALL THAT COUNTS IS THE N-P-K.

What are you fertilizing your Rose with?  Roses need a lot of Nitrogen, more than they get from ordinary shrub fertilizer.  But they also need substantial amounts of Phosphorous to grow buds and flowers.  Many products on the market will have flowers on the outside of the box or container, just take a look at the shelves in Home Depot and you'll see what I mean.  Find the part of the fertilizer that gives you its N-P-K (Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium).  For any FLOWERING plant, you NEED to have a number in the middle that is nice and high.  Because the number in the middle is the one that will grow the largest Roses... or Daisies,... or Chrysanthemums,... etc.

AGING GRACEFULLY:  Finally, remember this little plant is only 2 years old.  All Roses need a year or two to become established.  Tender Loving Care will help, but be patient and don't rush things.

WINTERIZING:  Everybody Winterizes their car in the Northeast.  So Madison Avenue Marketers have jumped on that phrase to sell people things to "winterize" their lawns, their flowers, and their Roses.  DON'T BE FOOLED!  The best thing you can give your Rose(s) in the late fall is Dead Leaves and Dry Soil Mulch - and then leave them alone.  Don't fertilize them, don't spray them, don't even remove the spent blooms and Rose Hips.  Just let them be.  Your Mme Hardy Rose is able to sail through Zone 4 Winters without complaint.  Check the base of the Rose - do you see a swelling or enlarged growth where the upper Rose was "glued" to the root stock near the base of the plant?  If so, you will benefit from Mulching - just protect the region where the bud is grafted.  But if there is no "swelling" near the base of the plant, just under the soil, your specimen is 100% Mme Hardy Damask, and will probably endure all kinds of chill year after year.  No Winterizing needed.

And by the way, Lawns do not need to be "winterized" either, but that's a whole new story.

This is a lot of information to digest.  Please let me know if you need me to clarify anything.