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I LIVE ON THE SHORE IN CONNECTICUT. LATELY THE WINTERS HAVE BEEN VERY COLD (0-5 DEGREES F) FOR SEVERAL WEEKS. WE HAVE LOST MANY ROSES THAT HAVE BEEN WITH US FOR MANY YEARS. COULD YOU RECOMMEND SOME TYPE OF PROTECTION? WE HAVE LOST MANY CLIMBERS AND SHRUB ROSES. THANKS DICK SCHLUETER
Answer -
Hi, Dick--some of us build "cages" out of chicken wire, or use tomato poles and plastic netting around the bushes, making them between 2 & 3 feet tall. we set these around the bushes after pruning and spraying with lime-sulfur to prevent overwintering fungus, then fill the cages with loose soil and/or mulch. Wind is the biggest enemy in winter,drying out the canes.
Climbers can be removed from their supports, then laying the canes over and covering with a heavy layer of mulch. Shrubs with long enough canes can be done the same way.
For more information, visit the American Rose Society at www.ars.org. There are lots of friendly folks on the rose forums at GardenWeb.com, and you can always reach me here!
THANKS FOR THE GOOD INFO AND WEBSITES. ONE MORE QUESTION IF YOU DO NOT MIND...IN YOUR EXPERIENCE WHAT IS THE BEST SPRAY (OR TREATMENT) FOR BLACK SPOT MILDEW. ONCE AGAIN LIVING NEAR THE SHORE SEEMS NOT TO BE CONDUCIVE TO GROWING ROSES. BY THE END OF THE SUMMER MOST OF THE LEAVES FALL OFF. VARIOUS WEBSITES GIVE DIFFERENT INFO. THANK YOU SO MUCH, R. SCHLUETER
AnswerI like wettable sulfur (a powder to be mixed with water in a sprayer) or lime-sulfur mixed in a non-dormant concentration. The sulfur based fungicides are best for blackspot. If you have white powdery mildew, it will go away by itself (though it may leave crinkled foliage) when the day temperatures are in the 80's and the nights in the 60's. Until then, you can mix a tablespoon of Lysol or Mr. Clean in a gallon of water and spray it--you may be able to stop it before it crinkles the leaves.
Let me know if I can be of more help!
Margarett