Question
QUESTION: One of my hybrid willow tree which I planted a year ago is about 15 feet tall, I noticed one of the branch stems developing black patches, the leaves on that branch started dying off. Next 1-2 days I noticed the same black discoloration on one of the main branches. I trimmed the branches and the stem with the black discoloration. Within the next 2 days I noticed the blackening at the main stem trunk just above the ground. Some of the leaves have started to develop black spots giving them the appearance of a burn or singe. I have done a lot of surgery already, and removed a lot of stem branches. After reading online, I thought this might be fungus and I bought a systemic fungicide from FERTILOME and applied it to the tree.
Is there anything I can do to save the tree/plant ??? or is it a goner???
I live in mason, ohio and we have recieved a lot of rain this year. Is it too much water???
I have attached a photo of the tree at the branching spot which has turned back very fast. Also there is a leaf withe the blackening.

ANSWER: Sounds like black canker. Black canker results from the fungus Glomerella miyabeana and afflicts willow trees later in the season. The disease causes cankers to appear on the larger stems of the tree and leaves. Tree foliage starts to show dark brown to black lesions or spots. As the disease spreads towards the stem it causes leaves to shrivel and die. Gradually the fungus colonizes the stem tissue and starts to create dark brown and black cankers. Black canker can be controlled with the timely application of recommended fungicides and pruning of the infected limbs.

Black canker can be controlled with the timely application of recommended fungicides and pruning of the infected limbs. Prune the infected branches and destroy the branches.  On a large scale the best organic control is to use Bordeaux mixture. Check with your local garden type store for this product. and follow the instructions on the container.

Willows like water so I would not think water is the issue. I do not think the fertilome will work well on this canker but it does work on leaf spots well. I would prune the bad places out and see what happens next spring and at leaf out and spray the leaves and stems with the Bordeaux mixture again then.  


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QUESTION: Thanks for the response, just a couple of f/u questions on this.
This morning I noticed that the main trunk is turning black. Should I get rid of the tree ? there are other healthy willows next to it.
Some one suggested scraping off the black on the bark. Is this sound advice?? Is there any chance of the tree coming back next year if it loses all the leaves??
Is there any benefit to applying fungicides like aliette( aluminium fosetyl)?

ANSWER: I really can not tell how bad the situations is--if the 75 % of the foliage is dead and the most of the branches are dead and also the trunk and this canker has established itself on a good bit of the main trunk. I would lean toward removing the tree to prevent the spread to the other trees nearby. I normally do not advise to cut a tree and you will have to make that determination from the extent of the disease damage. I did find that aliette can work on some cankers mainly root cankers and found one case on ivy of black canker use. It will not hurt the tree to try it.

Scrapping the black off will do no good. The fungi is in the woody cells and the black is the fruiting bodies that a fungi uses to spread the fungi.

I am sorry I think I would remove and destroy the tree. At least get all the woody material away from the site. Sorry!

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QUESTION: Just fyi, I could not find bordeaux mixture anywhere locally. Any suggestions?

Answer
Try this home made mixture.
mix up a one gallon batch of a bordeaux mixture.

Take a gallon of water
Set 1 large cup full out of that and mixed in 3 TBL spoons of lime.

Take the rest of the water and dissolved 6 1/2 tsp of copper sulfate.  Make sure it was entirely dissolved by swirling the mixture around for a few min.  If you see a few pieces of copper, keep swirling.

Take the mixture of lime, gave it a quick stir and combined the two into a gallon sprayer.  Shake it up and add a squirt of dish soap.

 
NOTE: one measurement is a Tablespoon, the other is a teaspoon.

Fixed copper fungicide sprays (e.g. tribasic copper sulfate, copper oxychloride sulfate, and cupric hydroxide) also control many of the same disease-causing organisms as Bordeaux mixture. Although fixed copper sprays are much easier to prepare and don抰 stain surfaces, they don抰 withstand winter rains as successfully. However, they are the most effective and best choice to use in spring after trees begin to show new growth

You can purchase copper sulfate and hydrated lime at most garden centers. Powdered copper sulfate, often referred to as 揵luestone,?is a finely ground material that dissolves relatively quickly in warm water. Ordinary, lump copper sulfate isn抰 satisfactory, because it is slow to mix into the solution. Store copper sulfate in a dry place. If it gets moist, it becomes lumpy and difficult to work with. Fixed copper fungicides shouldn抰 be used in making up a Bordeaux mixture.

You can use either dry hydrated lime or slaked lime to prepare Bordeaux. The most important point is to use fresh lime. Don抰 use lime from last season, and purchase only what you can use in the current season.

Apply the Bordeaux the same day you prepare it. After you have used up the mixture, immediately rinse the equipment at least three times, since the mixture is highly corrosive to metal tanks and pump parts. Add a small amount of vinegar to the rinse water to neutralize any leftover residue.

I hope this helps.