Question
QUESTION: I have 3 acres full of oak trees that are dying. In the past 3-4 years the trees seem to be overrun with air plants & moss. It seems like they are draining the trees of moisture and the branches are dying. What can I do to fix the problem, I have heard the trees need more water or that I should spray with liquid copper. What is the truth?

ANSWER: By air plants if you are talking about Spanish moss here is information on the treatment of this.

Spanish-moss, also called Florida moss, long moss, or graybeard, is not a true moss. It is an epiphytic plant, which grows on another plant, but does not rely on the host plant for nutrients; epiphytes make their own food.

They are sometimes referred to as air plants because most have aerial roots; however, Spanish-moss does not have any roots. It uses its long, thin, scaly stems to wrap around the host tree and hang down from the branches. The leaves are covered with cup-like, permeable scales that 'catch' moisture and nutrients from the air and from pockets on the surface of the host. This water-trapping ability allows Spanish-moss to withstand long dry periods. In extreme dry spells, the plant becomes dormant until moisture returns.

While the plant is not parasitic, it can sometimes damage the host tree by over-shading the leaves, thus reducing photosynthesis, or by weighing down and breaking the branches.

It is usually not necessary to control, this moss but it can be if needed.

The following materials are licensed for control of Spanish moss and/or ball moss: TC Tribasic Copper Sulphate, Blue Shield, Basic Copper 53, Micro Flo Basic Copper 53, Micro Flo Copper 3 FL.
The mixture will be printed on the container that you buy. It may not say Spanish moss but use the rate for ball moss.

It should be noted that there is evidence that copper-based herbicides and fungicides may cause damage to tender growth on trees. I would spray before the leaves bud out or wait until about mid summer when the leaves are not tender. As with all herbicides, when using these materials read and follow label directions carefully.

Hand removal of Spanish moss is possible and can be done successfully on small trees by standing on a ladder or using a pole.  The procedure is labor intensive and costly. Homeowners would be well advised to consider the ecological benefits of Spanish moss and let the plant grow unless heavy infestation is endangering the health of the tree through reduced light.

Baking soda has been shown effective for ball moss control at the rate of 40 pounds of baking soda per 100 gallons of water, Mr. Arm %26 Hammer has not put it on the label SO WE CAN'T RECOMMEND IT! However, if it is used, it should be applied exactly as the herbicides.  

Now if the Moss that you are taking about is on the bark it maybe lichens not moss.

Lichens are an example of a symbiotic relationship between algae and certain fungi. They are capable of producing their own food. The algae associated with the fungus is a green or blue-green alga. There are three forms of lichens based on growth patterns. Crustose are species that are closely pressed against the surface of the limb or trunk of dead or live trees. Foliose forms are leaf like or prostrate but are also tightly attached to the tree. Fruticose forms are bush like, erect or hanging. Although lichens are found in most areas of Texas, they are most noticeable in areas that have extended periods of high humidity.

The effect of lichens on a tree are only slightly detrimental. The plants are epiphytes. That is they derive their nutrients from the air and not from the plant on which they are growing. Although they are not parasitized, literature reports suggest that lichens do have a slight negative effect. The main concern is that lichens give a tree an unkept appearance. Presence of lichens also is a good indicator of a thin tree canopy. This often leads homeowners to conclude that lichens are the cause and not the effect of thin foliage. The best control for lichens is maintain the tree in good condition. This will insure a dense canopy which will shade the limbs and reduce photosynthesis. Without photosynthesis, lichens are not able to manufacture food needed for growth and development.  

The baking soda recommendation I have herd of is 40 pounds of baking soda per 100 gallons which comes to 0.4 lb of baking soda to 1 gal of water. But I would not do anything about the lichens but I would fertilize the tree with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. this will increase the overall health of the tree.

The fertilizer will help the tree by increasing the overall health of the tree.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I guess I was not specific enough. I do have the moss as you have described but also what I call air plants. They seem to be rooted in the bark and have long green curly "branches" with what looks like a brown flower at the end. They are about the size of a baseball on average but some are as small as a quarter. They appeared the same time the moss did and I see it extensively in this area, Central Florida. The roots are a dark brown color. Any idea what they are and if liquid copper will get rid of them?

Answer
Sounds like Ball Moss. Here is a web link to information in Ball moss.
http://www.floridata.com/ref/t/till_rec.cfm

Ball moss is an epiphyte, which means it makes its living from the air.  In some areas it even grows on utility lines or fence wires.  It likes the lower branches of live oaks because the crown forms an ideal environment with high humidity and limited air movement.  The branches on which it grows are not dead or dying because of the ball moss.  They are dying because they are shaded by the branches above.  Tree branches need a certain amount of light in order to stay alive.  The light is necessary for photosynthesis in the leaves.  Without light, leaves cannot produce sugars through photosynthesis and they starve.  The tree cannot afford to have leaves that are not making their own living.

If you think ball moss is ugly and want to kill it, even if it is not hurting the tree, there are several ways.  It can just be physically removed.  Ball moss is not attached to the branch very tightly.  A cane pole or a pole and hook will remove all that you can reach.  The usual way to control ball moss, however, is to spray it.  The most legal and recommended spray is to use copper hydroxide, in the form of Kocide.  Spray it on in February or early March and it will kill most ball moss on the tree.  The clumps may not fall off, however, until the next few rain storms.  Spray next year again to kill the clumps that survive the spray this year and the tree will be ball moss free for three or four years.

To reach very high in the tree you will need to rent a relatively powerful spray rig.  Area rental stores have the rigs and will help you determine how powerful the sprayer needs to be based on the height of the ball moss.  Follow the Kocide instructions carefully.  The label is the law and tells you exactly how to safely use the material.  It is relatively safe but can defoliate plants if it is misused.



         In addition to Kocide many feed stores also sell baking soda as a ball moss control.  Technically it may not be legal, but is often used at the rate of 60 lbs. Per 100 gallons of water.  

Check with your localnursery for these products.