Question
Hi Jim,
I read another past post about a similar  problem I'm having with my tri-color beech (purpurea tricolor). I planted this tree 3 years ago in full sun and every year the same thing happens. In Spring for about 3 or so weeks, I see magnificent hot pink leaves appear only to change to brown crusty crumbly leaves that only get worse and worse. The tree looks  looks dead from this point on until the following Spring when the cycle begins all over again.  I read that you say this is the nature of the tree, but is that when it's planted it in full sun or in any location? I live in Chicago and was wondering if I moved it to a less sunny area if this would solve the problem, or if fertilizing it with Holly tone would fix it?  You recommended on another post to fertilize 5 times a year with Holly tone.  Would 2 times/year be better?

Answer
Best grown in deep, rich, moist but well-drained soils in part shade. Plants do not perform well in the heat and humidity of the deep South. Variegated foliage may scorch in hot afternoon sun in the St. Louis area where sundappled conditions with some afternoon shade may be best. Intolerant of wet, poorly drained soils.  Plants do not always grow well in urban settings.

IF you do transplant it make sure you follow the following directions.

Deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs may be planted either in the spring or the fall. Deciduous plants may be moved in the spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground, up until the time when new foliage is partly unfurled. In the fall, they may be planted once the leaves start to turn color up until the ground freezes. I would move it in the spring.

When you want to dig up a tree or shrub for transplanting, retain as much of the root system as possible.  Deciduous trees  can be successfully moved only if a ball of soil is left around the roots. The exposed roots should be protected with moist burlap or newspaper or with polyethylene sheeting. Every effort should be made to reduce root exposure to wind and sun, keeping the ball as moist as possible. It's best to prepare the hole before digging up the tree you wish to move.

Size of the root ball and size of the hole:

For deciduous trees and shrubs the soil ball should be:

Width = 9-12 in. in diameter/every 1 in. of tree diameter
Depth = 6 in./every 1 in. of tree diameter

For example: A tree trunk 2 inches wide would need a soil ball of 18-24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

Dig the new hole twice the size of the root ball and as deep and fill with good top soil and mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not piled up on the trunk. After transplanting I would not fertilize for the first year and then in the Fall and again in the spring will be enough.