Question
i have just been bought a lemon tree please advise me how to look after it , where it would survive best (indoors or out  etc  )
     yours gratefully sharrone

Answer
If you are in an area that citrus trees grow I would plant it out doors but they can be planted in a pot and move if need be.

Potted
Citrus trees can make very attractive container plants for those homeowners who have the space and the access to natural light indoors to support citrus growth or for those who need to move their plants inside occasionally to escape winter freezes. Of course, from the standpoint of size, the smaller members of the citrus family like limes, kumquats and calamondins are the best choices for houseplants but all citruses will adapt to containers until they reach a certain size. The following factors are most the most important to consider when growing citruses in containers:

The Container: The container must be large enough to give the citrus room to grow. Any material will do, really, from old wooden barrels to large planters available from your local garden center. However, if you are going to be moving your plant occasionally, weight is a consideration. Whatever container you choose, make sure that it has holes in the bottom to allow for drainage.

Light: All citruses require lots of sunlight to grow properly. However, you may wish to choose partial shade as opposed to full sunlight to slow the growth of your tree and acclimatize it if you plan to move it indoors from time to time. Make sure, though, to avoid subjecting your container citrus to lengthy periods of full shade as this will hamper its development.

Planting Your Container Citrus

Preparing the Container: After you have selected a container and are ready to plant, place a layer of mesh over the holes in the bottom to prevent soil from escaping while allowing drainage. Next, cover the mesh with one or two inches of gravel which will further aid drainage.

Planting Your Citrus

Partly fill the container with potting soil, place your tree in the center and continue adding soil until it is at the level at which the tree was originally planted, no higher. If you have chosen your container correctly, there should be a gap of a few inches between the surface of the soil and the lip of the container allowing you to water without overflow. If you like, you can add a layer of bark or mulching material on top of the soil.

Container Citrus Maintenance

Watering and Fertilizing: Try to avoid overwatering your citrus. A good rule of thumb is to allow the first inch of soil to dry between waterings. Water slowly until the soil is moist but not soggy. A good citrus-specific fertilizer should be used from time to time but do not over fertilize and follow the instructions carefully.  

Freezing: If your container citrus is generally left outside, keep a close watch on the weather forecast during the winter. Remember that container trees will freeze sooner than landscape-planted trees. While there are steps that you can take to protect your tree from freezes while left outside, the safest course of action with container plants is to move them indoors until the cold snap has passed.

Pruning: Pruning is generally not necessary in the case of landscape citruses. However container plants which are not receiving adequate light sometimes become 'leggy' and can benefit from pruning the top back by about a third. This will stimulate branching. Remember, though, that for the long term health of your tree, pruning cannot take the place of adequate light. (treehelp.com)


Out doors
The various lemons are well-adapted to virtually any soil in which they are likely to be planted--if the soil has good internal drainage. Growth on heavy clay soils is likely to be reduced and problematic, as it will on soils having high hardpan.

Because of cold sensitivity, lemon trees should be limited to the south or southeast side of the house and as near to it as the mature tree size will permit. While overhanging shade trees will provide some cold protection, lemons require full sunlight for optimum growth and production.

The new hole should be twice the size of the root ball and as deep. Under no circumstances should soil around the proposed planting site be removed to form a shallow basin for watering--to do so almost guarantees that the young lemon tree will contract foot rot and die before its fifth year. The soil in the planting site should be at least as high as the surrounding yard, if not higher. In addition, the tree should be set at the same depth or slightly higher than it was in the nursery container to assure that the budunion will remain well above the soil.

Mixing topsoil, compost, peat or other materials with the backfill soil is neither necessary nor desirable in good soils. Set the tree in the hole, backfill about halfway, then water sufficiently to settle the backfill around the lower roots. Finish backfilling the hole and then cover the root ball with about in inch of soil to seal the growing medium from direct contact with the air and thereby prevent rapid drying of the root ball.

To facilitate watering, bring soil from the garden or elsewhere to construct a watering ring atop the ground around the newly planted tree. The ring should be about two feet across and several inches high and thick. To water, just fill the water ring immediately after planting. After the water soaks in, it may be necessary to add a little soil to any holes formed as the soil settled around the roots.

The watering interval should be every few days for the first couple of weeks, then gradually increase the interval to 7 to 10 days over the next couple of months. The watering ring with gradually melt into the surrounding soil, at which time the young lemon tree can be considered to be established.

Fertilizer should be withheld until after growth commences. During the first year, a single cupful of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) split into three or four applications is adequate. Use 2 cups in the second year and three in the third. Just scatter the fertilizer on the ground around the tree and water thoroughly. In areas other than the Valley, use whatever fertilizer analysis that is in general use in the area for trees and shrubs--simply adjust the rate based upon nitrogen content.