Question
From Central Connecticut:  

Wife's grandmother gave her a Rose of Sharon.  We are moving and the tree is too big to transplant.  Is there a way to take part of the tree to reroot and plant?  Travel distance will be 5.4 miles.

Thank you

Answer
You can use either a softwood cutting or a hardwood cutting.
Softwood cuttings are taken from new growth of the current season. They are used for propagating deciduous shrubs such as forsythia and lilac. They are generally the easiest to root and don't require special handling. The best months to take softwood cuttings of shrubs are June and July, although some may be taken in August.

Softwood cuttings are taken while stems are succulent and not yet woody, but mature enough to break when bent sharply. Avoid very young, tender shoots.

Hardwood cuttings may be taken from deciduous plants and narrow-leaved evergreens. Cuttings from these plants are taken during the late fall or early winter after a hard frost when the plants have become dormant. The length of these cuttings may vary from 4 to 24 inches, although most are made 8 to 10 inches long. Diameter may vary from 1/4 to 1 inch, depending on the type of material to be propagated.

The length of these cuttings may vary from 4 to 24 inches, although most are made 8 to 10 inches long. Diameter may vary from 1/4 to 1 inch, depending on the type of material to be propagated. Dip the base of the cuttings in a rooting hormone for faster and better rooting. Rooting stimulants are generally available in most garden supply stores. Use as directed.

The medium used for rooting cuttings must be clean and sterile. Diseases are a frequent cause of poor rooting. They may come from containers, tools, workbench or rooting media that have not been sterilized.

The rooting medium should not contain fertilizer. Begin fertilizing after cuttings are rooted and have been transplanted to a growing medium.

Clean, coarse, construction-grade sand may be used for rooting cuttings. Avoid very fine sand because it has poor aeration, which retards root formation. A mixture of one-half sand and one-half peat moss is a better rooting medium.

Vermiculite, a lightweight expanded mica product, is suitable for rooting cuttings. The horticultural grade (No. 2) is the best size to use, and it may be used separately or mixed with an equal volume of sand.

Perlite is another excellent propagating material. It is lightweight and provides good aeration to the cutting. Perlite gives best results if mixed with an equal volume of peat moss or vermiculite.

Heavy soils should not be used for rooting. They tend to pack tightly, which results in poor aeration and little or no root formation. They also must be thoroughly sterilized to prevent disease development.

Compressed peat pellets that expand when water is added make a convenient propagation medium and container.

As little time as possible should lapse from the time the cuttings are taken until they are inserted into the medium.

The prepared cutting should be stuck into the medium up to the remaining leaves. Water thoroughly to settle the medium around the base of the cutting.

The propagation medium should never dry out during rooting. Also, avoid excessive watering, which results in poor aeration and death of new roots.

Since cuttings don't have a root system, high humidity must be maintained. Low humidity allows wilting, scorch, leaf drop or death.

Enclosures help maintain high humidity. If only a few cuttings are to be rooted, use a miniature greenhouse or place individual pots in large plastic bags . Monitor the plastic bags for condensate, and water the medium when condensate disappears. Never place plastic-enclosed containers in direct sunlight, because excessive heat will build up. For rooting large numbers of cuttings, use coldframes, hotbeds or greenhouses.

OR if there is part of the tree that you can dig up this would be best.