Question
I have a large AV that is about 15 years old. I lived in Mobile, AL until June of 2006 when I moved to Colorado for four months and then to Phoenix, AZ where I now live.
The AV traveled with me in my car in a box and did really well...even with all the different places I and the violet have lived lately.

Okay, after being here since Sept. my violet now has little white spots on all the leaves and down the stems. It's a powdery substance. It is still blooming and looks okay except for the white spots. I tried to clean the leaves with milk and water but it didn't work.
The violet is behind blinds but has sun on it during the day...maybe too much direct sunlight? I sure would hate to lose my violet now after all we've been through.
Also, I did put some miracle grow water on it once when I was watering my lawn...just a little amount...usually I put violet food on it...but don't have any right now. I also have recently put some special violet potting soil in the pot as it had lost some of it's soil during my travels.

Any help would be so appreciated....and thanks for sharing your expertise with us...it's a nice thing to do. Also, my granny had violets and they thrived under her care...that's why I love them so much.
Thanks again,
Leslee

Answer
Leslee,
I want to applaud you for thinking to use something like milk on your leaves.  It might not cure the problem, but it shows you know a little (or a lot!) about violets.  Your problem with the violet is most likely one of two things:  Powdery mildew, or spider mites.  Both of these attack African violets frequently.  With the white spots I am also surprised that the plant is continuing to bloom.  It actually sounds more to me like powdery mildew, which is not as aggressive as the mites.  I have copied and pasted some info from Cornell University which should help you not only diagnose, but treat the problem if it is the mildew.  Read it through, and if you wish to view a page of photos then visit their website.  I am not at my home computer, so for some reason the photos did not copy for me.

Now, IF you do not think this is your problem, and that it is spider mites or even something else, then please write back to me and I will give you some directions on getting rid of them, difficult as it might be.  You may also send me a photo/photos if you wish.  I welcome them.  If you want to, here is my email address:  [email protected].  

Following is the copied and pasted info from Cornell University.  I hope it is helpful.  (I have no connection to them; I simply thought the info was the best, most concise).  Let me hear from you if you wish me to provide you with more info.  It is my pleasure to help.


POWDERY MILDEW

 F A C T S H E E T


Introduction

There are numerous fungi that fall under the general description of a powdery mildew. They will be treated together here since most of these have similar habits and similar management practices. Houseplants that are commonly infected by powdery mildew include African violet and begonia. Outdoors there are numerous plants that may be infected in any year, but lilac, phlox, some rose varieties and fruit trees seem to be infected most frequently. The actual injury to the plant varies greatly with the species and even the variety attacked. For instance, lilacs are typically infected late in the growing season and this does not usually cause serious injury to the plants. Lilacs are able to survive year after year in spite of the disease. On the other hand, begonia may be seriously injured by even a mild infection. The tissue under the fungal growth dies soon after infection resulting in leaf drop and poor plant growth. Thorough management practices must be implemented in this case. Among roses there are varieties that are more seriously affected than others. If powdery mildew has been a problem in the past, choose a variety that has some resistance to the disease.

Symptoms

Powdery mildew appears as a dusty white to gray coating over leaf surfaces or other plant parts (Fig. 1). In most cases this fungal growth can be partially removed by rubbing the leaves. It might be identified incorrectly as dust that has accumulated on the leaves. Powdery mildew, however, will begin as discrete, usually circular, powdery white spots. As these spots expand they will coalesce, producing a continuous matt of mildew (similar to dirt or dust). A plant pathologist using a microscope can determine whether a fungus is present anytime the whitish patches are present.



Figure 1: Powdery Mildew on Rose. Note distortion of some leaflets.
Figure 2: Cleistothecia of the fungus on the underside of an infected leaf.


Symptoms usually appear late in the growing season on outdoor crops. The fungus is favored by periods of high relative humidity or site conditions that promote a more humid environment, such as close spacing of plants, densely growing plants, or shade. Indoors, symptoms may occur at any time of year, but the rate of spread and development will be affected by the relative humidity and temperature.

Injury due to powdery mildews includes stunting and distortion of leaves, buds, growing tips, and fruit. The fungus may cause death of invaded tissue (begonia, for example). Yellowing of leaves and death of tissue may result in premature leaf drop. Nutrients are removed from the plant by the fungus during infection and may result in a general decline in the growth and vigor of the plant. The seriousness of the disease will depend on the extent of the various types of injury.

Disease cycle

The fungi which cause powdery mildew are spread by spores produced in the white patches. These spores are blown in the wind to other parts of the plant or to other plants during the growing season. Generally each species of fungus will be limited in the number of plant species that can be attacked. For example the species of fungus infecting lilacs will not cause powdery mildew on apples.

During the winter the fungus survives on infected plant parts and in debris such as fallen leaves. It may produce resting structures known as cleistothecia, which resist harsh winter conditions. These will appear as small black dots within the white powdery patches (Fig. 2). The next spring, sexual spores (ascospores) are released from the cleistothecia, shot up into the air, and carried by air currents to leaves of plants where new infections will begin. During the growing season, the fungus produces asexual spores (conidia) that help the fungus to spread and infection to build. This is the general cycle for most powdery mildews of outdoor plants. With houseplants the overwintering stage is of little significance. Depending on the environmental conditions indoors, the fungus could continue to grow and spread during the entire year.

Management Strategies

There are several effective fungicides available for different sites and plants, but use on plants varies with each product, and not all fungicides registered for use to treat powdery mildew may be used on all plants. Be certain the product you purchase is labeled for the intended use(s), and follow directions on that label.

For indoor plants, disease management includes gathering up and destroying fallen leaves, reducing relative humidity around plants, and spraying with a fungicide. In New York State, some products that may be used to treat powdery mildew on indoor plants include: sulfur (Lilly Miller RTU-MPF*), lime sulfur (Lilly Miller Polysulfide), potassium bicarbonate (Milstop or Remedy), jojoba oil, (E-Rase), Bacillus subtilis(Serenade Garden RTU*) and some products containing the active ingredients: neem oil or thiophanate-methyl.


For outdoor ornamental plants, gather up fallen leaves in autumn and destroy them. Where powdery mildew is a problem, resistant varieties (if available) should be grown. If needed during the growing season, begin fungicide applications when the first white patches are noticed. Repeat as indicated on the product label during cool humid weather. Some products with a broad range of applications for outdoor ornamentals include products containing: Bacillus subtilis, jojoba or neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur or lime sulfur. Some of these products may also be used to treat powdery mildew infections in the vegetable garden. Other products may also be available, so refer to the appropriate pest management guidelines or contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information.

Management of powdery mildew on fruit trees may be combined with the normal spray schedule and should begin at the green tip bud stage for apples. In New York State, some products that may be available for use include: Bonide Copper Spray/Dust, Elexa-4 (chitosan), multi-purpose sprays, and some products containing the active ingredients: Bacillus subtilis, neem oil, thiophanate-methyl, potassium bicarbonate, or myclobutanil.


Wettable sulfur is known to cause injury to some plants. Check labels for cautions about sensitive plants. If thiophanate-methyl does not seem to be controlling the disease, do not continue to use it. In some cases the fungus is able to develop a resistance to this chemical.

*RTU = Ready to Use, MPF = Multi-Purpose Fungicide

Updated, SLJ, 3/05


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This publication contains pesticide recommendations. Changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly, some materials mentioned may no longer be available, and some uses may no longer be legal. All pesticides distributed, sold, and/or applied in New York State must be registered with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC). Questions concerning the legality and/or registration status for pesticide use in New York State should be directed to the appropriate Cornell Cooperative Extension Specialist or your regional DEC office. READ THE LABEL BEFORE APPLYING ANY PESTICIDE. __________________________________________________________________________________
The Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic at Cornell University is located at 334 Plant Science Building, Ithaca, NY, 14853. Phone: 607-255-7850, Fax: 607-255-4471, Email: [email protected] or [email protected]