Question
QUESTION: I took some seed pods off of a crepe myrtle tree before they flowered out. I then put them in the refrigerator around Aug. 15, 2009. Have I done the right thing or not? If so what do I do with them now or how do I open them to get the seed out? or can I just plant the pod?

ANSWER: The pods should be dry and will break open simply by rubbing them lightly between the palms of both hands. Just be sure to dislodge them over a container because they will fall out easily.

Do not plant the entire pod. You only want to plant 1-3 seeds in each starting pot or plastic cell. Just in case you have never started seeds indoor before, I am attaching my standard seed starting instructions. You can also wait until next spring and plant them directly in the garden.

Seed Starting
Starting seeds is actually an easy process, but success only comes through many years of trial and error. I have been starting seeds indoors for the last eighteen years and thoroughly enjoy it.  Since I start over 500 seedlings every year, including annuals, vegetables, and herbs, it does become a full-time hobby.  The obvious advantages are the cost savings and the variety as opposed to purchasing seedlings at the garden center.

Most vegetable and annual flower seeds need to be started 6-8 weeks prior to your last expected frost.  The exact timing can be found on the seed packets, but 6 weeks is usually a good rule of thumb.  Never sow seeds deeper than twice their diameter.  For small seeds, place them on the surface of the growing medium, and then lightly sprinkle the mix over the seed until it is barely covered.  Water from the bottom to avoid disturbing the seed.

Seedlings need to be in simulated sunshine for at least 14 hours per day.  They also need 8 hours of dormancy for good growth.  You either need to invest in fluorescent bulbs called gro-lights which are as close to natural light as anything sold on the market, or substitute these with less expensive bulbs. By using one cool and one warm white fluorescent in combination, you will achieve the same effect.

If given the correct conditions, namely adequate moisture, strong light, and healthy soil, the seeds will germinate and grow to maturity with few or any problems. I grow my seedlings in seed trays with individual cell packs.  After sowing, I cover with a pre-fitted plastic dome.  But once the first seedlings sprout, it is important to remove the cover to avoid damping-off disease.  This is a fatal fungus disease which only attacks young seedlings, and is caused by inadequate air circulation and non-sterile soil.  That is why I advise all those who start seeds indoors to only use sterile, soiless mixes composed of vermiculite, perlite, and sphagnum moss.  These mixes can be purchased at any reputable garden center.

Once the seedlings develop their second set of leaves, you can begin supplementing the plants with a diluted solution of fertilizer.  Since you want to keep the nitrogen and salt levels low at this stage of growth, I highly recommend staying away from the chemical mixes.  Rather, use a seaweed/fish emulsion formula at ?the recommended level.  This will help the plants?development and also help ward off disease.  You can purchase these organic formulas at most garden centers or through online websites such as Gardens Alive.

Finally, be sure to keep your fluorescent lights no higher than 3?above the seedlings at all times.  This is critical to prevent the plants from becoming weak and spindly.  As I mentioned earlier, they should be left on 14 hours per day.  If fluorescent lighting is not possible, put them in a southwest window and turn them every three days to avoid leaning.

I am attaching a few websites that should prove helpful.  I would also advise you to purchase 揟he New Seed-Starters Handbook?by Nancy Bubel. It has many good ideas and techniques that benefit even experienced gardeners.

http://www.gardenguides.com/TipsandTechniques/starting.htm
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06570.htm
http://echonet.org/shopsite_sc/store/html/SeedStarterHandbook.html


Supplies Needed for Seed Starting
1.   Seed Trays
2.   Seedling cell packs
3.   Peat Pots for Transplant Sensitive Seedlings
4.   Clear Plastic Domes
5.   Soiless Starting Mix Containing Vermiculite, Perlite, and Sphagnum Moss
6.   Heat Mat
7.   48?Lighting System; Single or Double Tier
8.   Nest Trays
9.   Gro-Lux Fluorescent Bulbs
10.   Hand Seeder
11.   Plant Markers; 4?br> 12.   Permanent Ink Markers; Sharpie Fine
13.   Fish Emulsion Fertilizer
14.   Misting Bottle

Good luck, and please write again if I can ever provide assistance.

Regards,

Mike

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I put these seed pods in The refrigerator when they were green. They are turning black now, and I opened one up today and it was still a little green. Will they dry out so I can open them up? I also was going to plant the seeds in some floating Styrofoam containers, just like you would tobacco plants. Would that be a correct way. I'm trying to seed approximately 3500 seedlings. I have rooted approximately 1000 trees and I have them in a small hot house I made. I'm hoping to plant them in their individual pots when I know they will be safe from a freeze in the early spring. I am from eastern North Carolina if that helps you any.

Answer
When the pods begin to turn black, that is the sign that the seeds are now viable for planting. You can now sow them in plastic or styrofoam pots, whichever is most convenient and affordable for you. Once your last frost passes next spring, you can then transplant them outdoors.

Have a great day.

Mike