Question
QUESTION: Hello Mr. Crowder, I live in Davenport, IA (52807) in a relatively new subdivision, the front yard (north facing) had an ornamental plum that did not bloom after winter exactly a year ago or as was expected this year, I had left the tree (12 foot tall) as a trellis, planted a trumpet angel vine by the tree stump last July and saw some growth as well as flowers before fall arrived last year, this April the vine seems to have died out too, the branches are snappy and do not bend but break. A Japanese Maple(JM) was sent by arbor day last week and I thought of planting it about 2 feet away from these 2 failed experiments, mainly because I wanted to get rid of a rose bush that was surviving but not blossoming flowers. As I dug out the rose bush, went about 2 feet or less to get the roots out and planted the new JM, I noticed a lot of clay, partly because it had rained the morning of this activity and the clay became more noticeable. Another JM that was planted by the developers of this neighborhood in my front yard had mysteriously died about 2 years ago as well. That was in the flat ground farther away from the house and the site described earlier is about 2 to 3 feet higher, closer to the house and is in a slight raised bed from the grass level. We have had a longer tougher winter and record rainfalls last year and presently and the north facing front lawn are probably not helpful either. Please say If I should move the new JM to the south of the house and use the front for some smaller plants or If I should endeavor treating the soil and hoping for it to survive. God bless.

ANSWER: Hi Ahmed, Clay doesn't kill plants, people do.  Heavy clay soil drains slowly.  Plants native to your area have evolved to grow in it and tolerate moisture.  Too often, we plant just anything in it and expect it to survive without knowing the type of soil the plant needs.  Most plants have to be planted very high so air remains in the top of the rootball instead of water.   
Never dig deeper than the plant's rootball.
Dig twice as wide as the rootball.
Do not over improve the soil.  Use the clay and add no more than 1/3 organic matter.
Plant high.  Everything should be at least an inch above your existing soil line, some plants will need to be higher.  Then mound soil up to the edge of the rootball, not on top.
Your maple will grow in sun or shade.  If it's a red maple, it needs sun to retain it's color.  In the shade, it's greener.
No plant wants to die before it's time.  We either give it something it doesn't want, or it wants something we didn't give it.  Jim

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QUESTION: Thanks a lot, Is it safe to remove the bare root planted about 3 days ago and follow your instructions, If yes, do I have a time limit before which I must do the replanting and for which the roots can stay exposed before they are planted again. Is cow manure appropriate for the 1/3 organic matter, does this make part of the mound or has to be at the bottom, and at the end, does top of root ball mean the highest root?. Thanks again.

Answer
Lift the plant and keep the roots wrapped in wet newspaper if you can't plant immediately, but try to replant now.  Manure is fine.  It should be mixed uniformly in your existing soil from top to bottom.  Top of the rootball is the plant's existing soil line.  Bring the soil up to, but not on top of, the rootball.  Jim